Discovering Alghero's Ancient Catalan Soul

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Alghero is the most visited city in the north of Sardinia. Sometimes called 'Little Barcelona', Alghero's ancient Catalan history remains very much in evidence, with its architecture and culture still carrying a strong Spanish influence. The austere coastal fortifications of the ancient sea walls, bastions and watchtowers contrast with the bright ceramic church bells and narrow streets that that unexpectedly open to reveal hidden piazzas.

Originally founded by the Doria family from Genova, Alghero was taken over by the Aragonese in 1353 who built a fortified city, leaving behind many reminders of their period of occupation. For example, if you start your walk along the waterfront, you can still hear the older people, who gather to sit and chat during the afternoons, speaking in the original Catalan language.

Continue your walk along the old walls that surround the historic centre, and you will find a series of watchtowers and bastions. The first you will come to is Maddelena, the only one of three original 16th century bastions still standing, its large tower dominating the port.

After Maddelena, you come to the watchtowers of Magellano and Pigafetta. This area is a hive of nightlife activity for both tourists and locals during the summer months. In fact, enjoying the 'movida' starts rather in advance of the night-time, as people gather in the late afternoon to watch the sun setting over the old fortifications and to enjoy an apertif.

Carry on along the Marco Polo Promenade, pass the Bastion of Cristopher Colombus and head towards the 'Royal Tower of Sperone' (or Sulia Tower). Upon reaching the Valencia promenade, take a moment to look back on your walk and enjoy views of the historic centre and the cliffs of Capo Caccia that line this beautiful stretch of coast.
Turn away from the sea and head into the narrow streets of the historic centre. Two places worth a mention are the Aragonese Palace of the Marquess of Albis and the Santa Maria Duomo. The Duomo was rebuilt during the 500s in a Gothic-Catalan style and is easily recognised by its octagonal tiled bell and Aragonese door.

The locals say that the 'Ciutat Vela' or 'ancient Catalan soul' is still very much a living part of Alghero and as you stroll around this part of the old city and port, it is easy to understand what they mean.